Apoxie Sculpt, Shin Surgery

Bleh. Well, for some reason even the gesso is able to be peeled off my thigh armor. I don’t know what the deal is. It’s possible that gesso is always able to be peeled off but I never saw it happen previously. The thigh had a little bondo on it when I applied the gesso over the entire thing. When the gesso started peeling off the bondo, as I discovered it does, it created edges for the gesso to continue peeling off the worbla as well (even with the thigh roughed up for adhesion). The bicep and shoe tongues had no issue with gesso. So I guess maybe you just absolutely have to have a coat of gesso over the entire thing all at once and be careful not to sand through it.

A coworker/friend of mine suggested I try Apoxie Sculpt. I’ve read it’s a fair bit heavier than bondo (although it doesn’t seem that much different to me) but on the other hand this stuff sticks to damn near anything and is rock hard when cured (bondo tends to stay a bit rubbery or sticky even when fully, properly cured). I tried it out on one side of one of the shoe tongues and I really like working with it. No fumes, 2-3 hour working time, is clay-like so it’s easy to build up corners and make it very smooth even before sanding. I’m hesitant to apply it to the larger pieces like the thigh and shins though.

The inside of the tongue before and after sanding:

Now that I know the EL tape is going to work, I began work on the shins again. I was concerned that they were going to end up being too tight so I did some surgery on the inside and removed the layer of worbla and the inner foam, then reinforced it with a layer of worbla and angled the cut edges so it would be comfortable. So far it seems to help a lot.

I also finished cleaning up the edges from where I had cut the shin apart, and started adding the flange along the seams where the two pieces will fit together.

~ by talaaya on June 1, 2014.

8 Responses to “Apoxie Sculpt, Shin Surgery”

  1. This looks amazing. Thank you so much for helping me figure out how to make my own 3D-printed project look smooth, too!

  2. Glad Apoxie clay is working for you. I’ve never tried doing a very large surface with it, though I imagine if you did it really thin, like roll it with a pasta machine or between wax paper with a heavy rolling pin, you could get a nice light layer.

  3. I hope that you still on this project, I am very anxious to see the outcome of this project, I’ll share this site!!

    • Well I essentially have finished it, I just stopped posting on this blog about it. There are a few things I need to fix and I need to get pictures taken, but yeah it’s done. Head on over to my post on the RPF (link at the top of the page) if you want to see more. I’ll eventually update this blog as well, I just haven’t done it yet.

  4. I’ve done a bit of paint prep work myself and in the course of doing that I have discovered a couple of products that make the job go a lot better for me. Bondo plastic filler certainly has its place, but it is not the only game in town. There is a product available that makes Bondo better. It is called Auto Body Plastic Filler Thinner. I’d mix a dash into a board mix while I was mixing up some plastic filler to work with. The thinner makes the plastic filler a little thinner, but much smoother, and less grabby, and it makes the filler tear less when spreading. It gives you a little more time to work with the filler too. Sometimes Bondo can kick off really quickly.

    I looked at Bondo thinner as liquid plastic filler annoyance remover for the most part. Then there is this totally different product called glazing putty. Glazing putty (not the stuff for glass windows! That is a different glazing putty entirely) is for finer imperfections than Bondo is really designed to handle. Basically what you had to deal with a lot. Glazing putty is kind of like extra thick paint that you smear on. I’d switch to using glazing putty once I got past Bondo, but before priming. Glaze is an intermediate bridging product halfway in between the two. You could put on some plastic gloves and finger paint with a tube of glaze, or use a spreader.

    Looking at what you did just has use glazing putty written all over it to me. So I figured I’d mention it.

    Finally you’re probably not equipped to handle it, but professional primer surfacers are simply amazing products. Two coats of that and you probably would have been 90% done. I’ve used some surfacer made by PPG that dries smooth. Although if you do have to sand it it sands like nothing else on Earth too. Really easily.

    Your suit looks like it came out really nice. But it might have been a bit easier for you to do it if you’d used some of what is available. Maybe you did, and I don’t know? You just mention Bondo though.

    BTW Bondo brand filler is the worst plastic filler I’ve personally ever had the displeasure to use. Anybody else’s has been better in my experience. I like Evercoat. Just a rare case of the name brand being the worst I suppose? Bondo plastic filler has always been lumpy for me, like little lumps, but I still didn’t like it.

    • Thanks for all the advice!
      I actually do use glazing putty. On the costume in general I’d say I used glazing putty way more often than regular bondo. I primarily used bondo on the pieces that had large dips, and glazing putty on the 3d prints and on top of the bondo.
      The problem I was having with the shins was that they were too flexible and adding a body filler wasn’t going to strengthen it so I went with Apoxie Sculpt.
      I’ve heard evercoat is better than bondo but I wasn’t really having any issues with it that were specific to the brand. The adhesion issues I was having would probably be the same with any body filler. That said, I do want to try out evercoat in the future; bondo was just what I ended up using at the time.

  5. Awesome and educational! I must step up my cosplay game! =P

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